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In the SCA there is a general feeling that if one is spinning
on a drop-spindle, one is spinning in a "period" manner.
However, once I started looking carefully at pictures of Medieval
and Renaissance women spinning, I realized that just using a
spindle is not enough. Medieval spinners used a distaff and did
not suspend the spindle directly in front of them as modern
spinners tend to do.
Written Evidence
References to spinning in literature point overwhelmingly to
the fact that spinning was women's work. There is ample evidence
for male spinning workshops, but in the average household all the
women spun, even if they were wealthy enough to afford to buy some
of their cloth in pieces. Survival of terms like the "distaff
side" (refers to the female side of the family) reinforce
this. Eve is often pictured spinning while Adam digs as in the old
saying "When Adam delved and Eve span, who then was the
gentleman?"
The distaff was the more noticeable and referenced spinning
implement than the spindle. This may seem odd because the spindle
is in actuality the necessary tool for the spinning. By contrast,
in ancient Greek literature the spindle or wool basket is
mentioned in the context of women spinning.
The term "rock" seems to have possibly referred to
the distaff (because it is unmoving) or the spindle (whorl) and
while I have seen examples of both uses, it more often seems to
mean distaff. "Reel" seems to have referred to the
spindle because it spins and holds the yarn.
Pictorial Evidence
Take a look at a modern drop-spinner - especially one who
learned how to spin on a wheel first and then picked up a spindle,
and you will probably see a very different picture from historical
images of spinsters. Modern drop-spinners tend to hold both hands
centered in front of them. Those who have done extensive
drop-spinning often evolve their hand positions; hands end up one
over the other to make a vertical drafting zone, and sometimes the
level of the hands comes up so that the drafting zone is right in
front of the eyes. Amazingly enough, this mimics the Classical
Greek and Roman spinning pose. One would think this pose would
have become universal; however, it is markedly different from
later illustrations of spinners. In general, images of spinners
(not counting spinners at wheels) throughout Europe from the
Medieval era on, have the following elements:
- distaff
- off to one side (tucked into belt or in a hole in the
bench, or in Russia & Eastern Europe a bat distaff
with L-shape to sit upon)
- In front (between knees, or in a separate holder like a
stool)
- the hand closest to the distaff drafts the fibers off the
distaff
- thread/yarn stretched between the hands across front of the
body
- the other hand lower and on the other side of the body,
holding the spindle or with the spindle suspended a few inches
to a foot below the hand
There is a rough correlation between fiber and spindle use;
flax fibers tend to be pictured more often with in-the-hand
spindles and wool fibers with suspended spindles. Of course, it is
often difficult to tell which type of fiber is being depicted,
especially since long wools were allowed to grow for a whole year
rather than half the year, as modern sheep husbandry dictates.
In looking at the spindles themselves, it is sometimes
difficult to tell whether they have a whorl because the cop of
yarn is larger than the whorl or perhaps covering it. I have found
a few close-ups of spindles from the 15th and 16th centuries that
show a large oblong cop of yarn, a small rounded whorl, and a
spindle that tapers to small points at both ends.
I have not personally seen pictorial evidence of a hook on a
spindle. Some argue that the mere fact that a spindle is depicted
suspended necessitates a hook or notch, but I disagree (having successfully
suspended my spindles many times with a half-hitch or two).
Pictures where the spindle is shown thrust top-down into a
distaff's fibers for storage indicate to me a lack of hooks
because I can guarantee those distaves would be in no good
condition for spinning after being tangled by the passage of a
spindle hook a few times. Notches, maybe, but only if they go
completely around the spindle without leaving an edge to catch
fine fibers.
Archaeological Evidence & Lack Thereof
Whorls are everywhere, and extremely common archaeological
finds. Characteristics of whorls:
- Heavier, denser materials such as stone and lead are more
common than lighter materials like wood and bone (that's not
to say that wood and bone are UNcommon)
- Shapes varied - general trends over time seem to be more
related to "fashion" than the physics of the whorl
shape (see next section)
- Shapes tended to have a large amount of mass at center
Spindles, however, are a bit more problematic. Such slender
pieces of wood tend to decay easily or be mistaken for unimportant
sticks. Some that have survived may appear to be notched at one
or both ends, but it is sometimes difficult to tell if the
"ends" of the extant spindle are really the original
ends, or whether they have broken off or gotten damaged.
My favorite spindles narrow to a diameter of about 2mm at the
top. I have broken several through use, and they probably wouldn't
survive being buried and dug back up without losing their narrow
tips.
Therefore I don't trust that we will ever get an accurate view
of exactly what Medieval and Renaissance spindles were like based
on the archaeological evidence. The best we can do is combine
pictorial evidence with information about the extant whorls.
The Physics of the Whorl
I do not claim to be a physicist, but here are some general
principles from which we can draw conclusions:
- heavier mass imparts more inertia to a rotating object than
light mass
- location of the mass relative to the center affects the
duration of the spin; mass closer to the center will make for
a shorter faster spin and mass farther from the center will
make for a longer slower spin
- a wheel with mass farther from the center has a slightly
gyroscopic influence to stabilize spin
I arrived at many of my conclusions about Medieval whorls by
defining what they are NOT meant for. Modern spindle makers pander
to a modern drop-spinning customer base that wants a very smooth,
stable, long-lasting spin. As a result, they make whorls that are
very wide and flat, often with more weight at the outside edge
than in the center. Homemade spindles with CD's for whorls are
very popular because they feel "stable" and the light,
wide CDs make for a relatively slow long-lasting spin.
Drop-spinners who pick up a spindle outfitted with a
reproduction Medieval whorl generally find that the spindle
"wobbles" too much, is difficult to control, and spins
too fast. Back-spin is a common problem; the twist builds up in
the yarn quickly, and even the fastest drafter has trouble getting
enough fiber out before the spin dies. The extant whorls don't
have any of the characteristics a modern drop-spinner looks for in
a whorl.
So why did our foremothers (and fathers, in some cases) use
such ornery whorls? Because they spun in a way that took advantage
of the properties of a small, dense, heavy-towards-the-center
whorl. If one is spinning the spindle in the hand more often than
suspending it from the yarn, backspin and stability are not
important. The whorl's job is to keep the spindle vertical and
spin as quickly as possible to enable the spinner to get the
maximum use out of each twirl of the finger and thumb.
Yarn and Cloth
Cloth fashions varied through the Medieval and Renaissance
periods, but in general the cloths being produced were not the
thick clunky fabrics we might imagine. Yarns were finely spun and
strong and not at all "primitive". I conclude from this
that the spinning techniques used to produce them must have been
very reproducible and time-tested. Other things we can tell from
yarn are listed below.
Direction of spin:
There are of course exceptions, but in several studies of
extant fabrics I've seen warps and fine worsted warps seem to
generally be Z-spun and soft fluffy warps seem to be S-spun. This
could indicate a difference in spinning methods. After the
introduction of the spinning wheel, soft fluffy warps were
generally produced on a wheel while warps were still produced on a
drop spindle if we are to believe regulations that restricted the
use of wheel-spun yarn in the warp. I have often wondered if
before the introduction of the spinning wheel soft fluffy yarns
were produced with a completely different spinning method from
smooth worsteds. One possibility would be the hand-held distaff
pictured in ancient Greek images of spinners. There are also many
other little-known spinning methods that survive in ethnic pockets
of the world to look to.
The majority of linen yarns were Z-spun even though the
"natural" spin direction of linen fibers is in an S
direction. Amazingly, the Z-spun trend seems to be fairly
consistent throughout the Medieval and Renaissance periods in all
of Europe. That leads me to believe that the direction of spin for
linen was determined by the spinning method.
Spinning in the hand produces a Z-spun thread if done by a
right-handed person, and an S-spun thread if done by a left-handed
person. The ratio of Z to S linen yarns seem roughly comparable to
the proportion of right- to left-handed people in the average
population.
Introduction of the wheel and regulations:
Regulations around the time of the introduction of the spinning
wheel indicate that wheel-spun yarns were not to be used for warp.
This shows that the spinners who were still spinning with distaff
and spindle were probably very economically powerful, and that the
yarns themselves were not trusted, at least at first (there were
some regulations of what percentage of the warp could be
wheel-spun before the disappearance of such rules).
I have heard it theorized that drop-spun yarn is superior in
strength to wheel-spun yarn because it bears the weight of the
spindle. However, this assumption is slightly problematic in that
the suspended spindles in illustrations generally are only
suspended from about a third or less of the yarn coming from the
distaff, leading me to believe that not all the yarn was
"tested" by the weight of the spindle.
My theory is that in-the-hand spinning allows the spinner more
control; she can speed up or slow down depending on how the fibers
are coming from the distaff. With a wheel, one can't just stop
easily to pick out neps or tease apart fibers. It is also very
easy to underspin yarns on a wheel, such that they go onto the
bobbin fine but fall apart as they are drawn off.
Conclusion
Spinners who really wish to be "authentic" need to go
beyond trying to use the appropriate spindle. Learning appropriate
techniques and using a distaff in recreation spinning should be
the next step. There is still much research to be done into
medieval and renaissance spinning.
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