|Anne Liese's Fibers and Stuff|
Fabric to shop for:
silk, hemp (substitute linen), ramie
cotton and wool were introduced in the 16th C.
Look for stiff, crisp fabrics with body. Drapey fabrics weren't introduced until the 17th century. Sometimes cottons and linens can be found that have the right look, but in the long term they may not launder and wear quite the same. Cottons are usually a better choice than synthetic fabrics, however.
Silk noil and "raw" silk should be avoided because slubby fabrics weren't being produced - they would have been considered low quality and unfit for clothing. Lower class people didn't wear slubby silk; they wore hemp and ramie.
In general, the top layer of an outfit would be made of a brocade or patterned fabric. Most layers under that were solid colors (except in late Muromachi & Momoyama, when any layer could be patterned). Hitoe were usually garments with a woven-in diamond pattern.
Early Autumn Colors for Women:
Diverse Chrysanthemums: Shades of Maroon from light pink to dark maroon
Yellow Chrysanthemums: Shades of maroon and pale yellow
Various Maple combinations: Scarlet, golden yellow, pure yellow, and green in various combinations
Multiple Maroon layers
Late Autumn Colors for Women:
Multiple Lavender layers
Multiple White layers
High-ranking Autumn colors for women:
Bright Scarlet Pink: multiple layers of Scarlet Pink (appropriate for Peers)
Purple: Multiple layers of Purple (appropriate for Royalty)
Autumn Colors for Men:
Japanese Fabric designs:
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This page created August 4, 2002
Last updated August 02, 2005